Tobae, Khanh, Shannon, and I decided to spend three fine September days scrambling peaks in the Sawtooths. The plan was to meet at the Cinnamon Twisp Bakery Friday morning then drive to the Eagle Lake trailhead, which is also the Crater Lake trailhead.
We donned packs and got going at around noon. The trail to Upper Eagle Lake is about 6 miles up a mellow grade. The trailhead is around 4600' and the lake is 7100'. We arrived at camp at around 3:30 p.m. The only other campers were some horse packers who appeared to be well equipped to do some serious drinking and possibly some fishing. They invited us to share whatever was on their barbeque. We politely refused because we were on a mission to set up tents quickly and get on with the business of scrambling Bigelow, which is an 8400' peak directly above Eagle Lake.
The route up is not obvious. There is no well-worn boot path and only one rock cairn at a spot just above the cliff bands. We picked the most direct route to get above the cliff bands then angled up toward a gully below the summit. Fortunately the route gets more obvious on the way up. At the gully, you cross to the back side, drop your pack then scramble up to a sketchy slot that could have dire consequences. Once across the crux, it's a walk to the summit. There are nice views of Star, Courtney, and Oval Peaks to the north. Had a nice scramble with friend Mark up Courtney and Oval Peaks a few years ago. We got weathered out for Star, so that peak is still on my list.
We didn't stay long on the peak because it was cold and windy and 6:00, our turn around time. Getting across that sketchy notch took a little time, especially since we had a reluctant dog with us, but once we got to our packs the route down was pretty easy. We arrived in camp at 7:00 p.m.
The wind had really picked up by the time we got down to the lake. Dinner was a dusty affair and rather dark, though we did have a campfire in an established ring and the temperature was surprisingly warm. Shannon and I turned in at around 8:30 or so. We left the vestibules open until the wind acted like it was going to pick up the tent underneath then blew clouds of dust onto us. We battened down the loose, flapping tent parts and attempted to sleep, in spite of gale force gusts. I know I slept because I kept waking up from a bunch of different dreams.
At daylight we breakfasted, coffeed, packed, and were on our way before 9:00 a.m. Our route for the day would take us from the lake up to Horsehead Pass, which is around 7600' then drops us down about 1000' to Boiling Lake and Merchant (?) Basin. We traverse the basin then hike up Angel's Staircase up to the pass at 8000'. From the pass we scramble Switchback/Cooney Peaks (8320') then traverse the ridge to Martin Peak (8375').
The temperature had dropped quite a bit and the wind picked up. The hike up to Horsehead Pass took less then an hour. Not long later we were down to Boiling Lake. The trail junctions get a little confusing in this area but I had camped at Boiling Lake a few years ago and remembered the intersection. A mile or so later we came to another intersection. Fortunately this one was clear. The trail traverses more or less across a contour south to the junction of Angel Staircase. Along the way we watched a bear about 1000m away forage in a meadow. Then we climbed Angels Staircase, an endless series of switchbacks up a shale trail to an 8000' pass.
At the pass we traversed the trail for a little while before gaining the ridge then doffing our packs to scramble Switchback or Cooney Peak. I know it as Cooney. Khanh and Tobae know it as Switchback. The peak is a little over 8300' and easily accessible across blocky talus. However, it was very windy and a little chilly so we didn't linger before moving on along the ridge toward Martin Peak.
Back in 2006 I had camped at Boiling Lake, traveled cross country to Angels Staircase, gained the ridge then scrambled Cooney Peak. I wanted to attempt Martin but I was by myself and Martin looked too far away to tackle that day. In any event, back then it was a nice warm day so I sat on Cooney for quite a while enjoying the view. Not this time. Too chilly, plus we were on a mission to tag Martin.
Martin looked like it was getting further and further away as we went. From Cooney the route descends the ridge quite a ways to a saddle. The ridge goes over various bumps so we transversed as high as we could, continually thinking about our packs back at Switchback. About halfway to Martin we decided that after tagging Martin we would follow a sloping ridge down to Cooney Lake then climb back up to the pass via the trail rather than trying to retrace our steps along the ridge. Even though descending to the lake then going up the trail would be longer, it would be easier and faster.
Finally we got to an easy gully to cross then dropped out day gear and made the final scramble to the summit, which is 8375'. A couple photos, quick admiration of the fine views, especially of the Cascade Crest to the west, then the descent to the lake.
If we would've been smart we would've tagged Cooney/Switchback then taken the trail to the lake, set up a hasty camp, then climbed that mellow ridge from the lake to Martin. The way we did was difficult and long. By the time we got to the lake we were tired and still had to climb 800' up to the ridge to get our packs. That side of the ridge is very steep. The switchbacks are short and very steep. I already said very steep but it bears repeating.
I was very happy to see my pack at the drop spot. The hike back down to the lake was tiring. My ankle had been bothering me since the day before. I hadn't even been able to lace up my boot all the way. Clearly this was one hike too many for this pair of Raichle's. Time to consider lightweight footwear.
At the lake, the wind had really picked up. We had a tough time finding a spot to set up camp out of the wind. We checked out numerous places before finding one that seemed like it might be slightly more out of the wind than others. It wasn't really but we were tired of looking. And it was very cold. We set up, got water boiling for hot drinks and hot water bottles and dinner. Shannon and I turned in even earlier just to get out of the wind and cold. Thankfully the wind died down but the temperature kept dropping.
I think I slept pretty well. There would've been frost if there had been enough moisture to freeze anything. Some water we had left overnight in a plastic bag froze. I dipped a hanky in some water water on the stove to wash my face. My hanky froze as soon as I wrung it out. Still the sun was coming through the trees. The lake was still and offered a beautiful reflection of Cooney/Switchback.
We packed up camp and got on the trail before 9:00. The hike out was 8 or 9 miles and mostly downhill so we made good time. Tobae had plans for early evening so needed to get out fast. Shannon and I had the whole day but we were ready to be done so we kept up a good pace. In any event we were back at the car at 12:15. Here are the pictures.