Originally I asked MarkN if he wanted to go skiing on Sunday but he said he already had plans with Dallas to climb either Porcupine Peak (7762’) or Kangaroo Ridge (Mushroom , Melted, and Big Kangaroo). He said I was welcome to come along so I did. Before our departure they decided on Porcupine as the objective I think mostly because Mark had attempted it some weeks before but was turned away by sketchy snow conditions.
We were expecting a trudge through the snow to a ridge between two broad peaks then a scramble up to the summit, with possibly a rope as backup to get through the exposed sections. Easy. Mark had even told his wife he’d be home by about 4:00 p.m. I packed my harness with a few doo-dads and my helmet.
The plan was to meet at 6:00 a.m. at the park and ride at Cook Road in Sedro Woolley. Mark was there first shortly followed by Dallas and another Mark, MarkD to keep the Marks straight. Based on the weather (rain) and the forecast, possible clearing but maybe not, we weren’t really sure whether we’d just have a pleasant ride up to the pass then turn around and come back. Or hike a ways then come back when it started raining on us. Or actually make our objective. Surprisingly I wasn’t fretting about it.
On the ride up I learned that MarkD is a retired teacher and had taken the climbing class through the Skagit Alpine Club with MarkN (who is in the middle of his teaching career) back in 1978. Dallas is a track coach at an area high school and is in his 50th year of climbing. He started climbing in 1961 and hasn’t stopped. There were over 100 years of combined climbing experience in just that group of three. My climbing experience only added about 5 years to the sum.
It wasn’t raining at Easy Pass and just a little further we saw the sign for Porcupine Creek. Just past that is the parking spot. Apparently there’s a trailhead with parking another mile up the road but since the trail is still under snow MarkN thought we would save ourselves a mile or so and just hike from the side of the road.
Traveling was pretty easy, except for the occasions we punched through the snow crust and ended up hip deep. Seems like that was happening to MarkD more than anyone else for a while. Round and round through the forest to Porcupine Creek. Rest and a drink of water after an hour. Continue. We found a snow bridge across Porcupine Creek right next to the trail bridge. The snow bridge seemed much less dicey than the sideways, slippery trail bridge. MarkD went first. Since I’m the lightest and it held up under the three men I felt confident it would hold my weight. Across the creek, through more forest then across a snow covered talus field and through another forest. We continued working our way to climber’s right. MarkN had a gps with the route from his last attempt so there wasn’t much head-scratching over the direction of travel.
It still wasn’t raining on us but the clouds were low, obscuring peaks in the distance. We decided to continue. Then we came to the final steep (~500’ or so?) to the ridge. Time for snowshoes. At least for a while. Then it became too steep for snow shoes. Boot pack. MarkN kicked steps. I offered to kick steps but I am not the person who is going to elbow my way to the front. Note: if you want me to kick steps or break trail you have to let me when I offer. Maybe as I go on more outings I will find the openings to get to the front but for now I’m content to stay in line until encouraged otherwise.
The clouds lifted somewhat as we arrived at the ridge. It took three hours to get from the car to the ridge, which was about 7480’. Not bad for the twisty turny route through the trees, punching holes in the snow, and so on. From this point it was only another 250’ or so to the summit (7762’ according to Beckey). We put on harnesses and helmets (at least those of us who remembered to pack them – MarkD ended up fashioning a harness out of webbing). Dallas and MarkD started up the scramble. MarkN encouraged me to ask for the rope if I felt uncomfortable. I wasn’t uncomfortable yet with the scramble but soon arrived at a point where I felt like I wanted a belay. MarkN scrambled ahead of me and set up a belay. I climbed the pitch just fine but felt much more secure knowing I had a belay in case I slipped on the cold wet loose rock.
Once I arrived at the top of the pitch we all roped in and Dallas lead the traverse, putting in three points of protection along the way. The traverse was long and eventually up to the false summit, which had taken two hours from when we left the saddle. Dallas made the final pitch to the summit. The rest of us decided that if one person on our roped party made the summit then we could all count it, mostly in the interest of time. It would take another hour to get the rest of us to the actual summit and Dallas was only about 20’ above us. Good enough for me and I was at the other end of the rope. I have a feeling that MarkN at least will want to tag the actual summit at another time. I may too, but probably in the fall when the route is an actual scramble rather than a technical climb.
I lead the way out until the final pitch. MarkD set up a rappel and went down. I went next then traversed to the saddle. An unsatisfying glissade in heavy snow down to a point where bootpacking was necessary to where I had left my snowshoes. Even with snowshoes the descent seemed harder than the ascent. Slippery, less sure on my feet. Probably tired too. We finally made it back to the car at 5:00. The way out seemed longer than the way in. Does it always feel that way? I’m not sure. We were all pretty tired by the time we got to the car but we celebrated with a beers and dry clothes. No one fell asleep on the way back to the park and ride, mostly because we were all talking about climbs we all wanted to do in the future, next weekend and beyond. Here are the pictures.
Stats: Approach is fairly gentle and easy going if you’re lucky enough to have firm snow until the last 500-1000’. Elevation gain is approximately 3000’. Time spent is totally dependent on the conditions encountered. Expect anywhere from 5 to 9 hours RT.
Equip: harness, glacier rope, a couple slings and ‘biners, ATC, helmet, snowshoes, 10 essentials, ice axe, extra gloves, sturdy gloves for rock – I admired MarkN’s Manzella’s, warm clothes, rain gear.
sounds like a nice climb. nice job!