We planned a backpack with friends Terri and David, who hadn't backpacked in about 6 years. Terri found a route that satisfied all of our requirements, which is somewhat miraculous considering there are 4 of us with varying needs, limitations, and desires.
The route up the Big Quilcene River in Olympic National Forest was described in one guidebook as the "one hike to do in the Olympics" because it features a bit of everything. That turned out to be true. There were wildflowers, clear streams, big forests, grand views of the mountains, and a nice fishing lake.
None of us were sure what time we'd arrive. Randy and I had to take a ferry; Terri and David drove from Olympia. We arrived at the TH within 20 minutes of each other and we were all early!
The hike begins in the forest, an old growth forest along the Big Quilcene River. I optimistically brought my fishing pole; Randy brought his skeptically. Camp was along a river so what could possibly go wrong?
The trail emerged from the forest into the flowered meadows. The river dropped far away from the trail as we hiked up toward Marmot Pass, which came into view as fog blew in behind it.
Soon we arrived at Mystery Camp, where Randy had scoped out a couple sites for both our tents. We set up camp then hiked the last half mile to Marmot Pass and admired the views across the Dungeness River drainage. Randy and I recognized the moutainous spires we saw from our 4-day hike along Grey Wolf and Dosewallips Rivers last fall. Then the fog moved in and we couldn't see anything.
We; hiked back down to camp in time for cocktail hour (how civilized!) and then started a delicious dinner of something freeze dried. I only eat half so I get to see the same meal for breakfast. Fortunately freeze dried meals have come a long way, even for breakfast! Terri treated us to reconstituted cheesecake, which was very good, surprisingly so. Which reminds me, I need to order some of those meals!
Yawns by 8:00 p.m. so we all turned in even though it was still sort of light. I was able to read in the tent without my headlamp.
In the morning we had a leisurely breakfast with Starbucks Via coffee and reconstituted something. I believe I had the second half of my chicken teriyaki. Then we packed for a day hike back up to Marmot Pass then north along the ridge toward the Copper Creek drainage. Our goal was to reach Buckhorn Lake so Randy and I could fish.
The terrain was inviting so we left the trail and dropped down into a meadow, heading in the general direction of the lake, which was not visible. Soon we began second guessing our decision, thinking we were going to miss it because it was situated in the forest and we couldn't see it.
However, we hit the trail on the other side and ran into another party who told us at the next junction the trail was well-marked and we'd find the lake. And so we did. It was a beautiful little lake, in that curious blue-green high mountain color that comes from melting snow and eroding granite.
Randy found a fishing spot then I found one at the mouth of a stream that drained into the lake. Two brook trout, one right after another, grabbed my hot-pink Dick Nite fishing lure (if it's not Dick Nite, you're not fishing right!). I let them go, even though they were decent eating size, mostly because I didn't want to carry them 3 1/2 miles back to camp. They swam off, probably wiser about pink lures.
We packed up and hiked back, switchbacking up the trail then over the ridge while the fog rolled in. Again we made it back to camp in time for cocktail hour and were pleased about how the day went. I had some kind of cheesy lasagna for dinner. The cheese impossibly coats the spoon so cheese is a feature in every meal for the remainder of the trip.
We had more reconstituted cheesecake and the chocolate mousse. Better to eat it than to carry it out! The cheesecake was superior, even to chocolate mousse. Again, yawns by 8:00 and to bed in the light. Randy's air mattress developed a leak so there was some squirreling about for the next hour to remedy that problem. David had duct tape on one of his hiking poles so Randy put that to good use and settled in around dark.
The next morning I had the other half of my cheesy lasagna for breakfast along with Starbucks Via coffee. We packed up camp and walked out on a beautiful morning. The Big Quilcene drainage was clear and sunny. Lots of hikers were coming in — we could tell when we were near the end of the trail because everyone coming up smelled freshy showered and laundered. We wondered what we smelled like but kept the windows down on the way to Hoodsport.
We ate Mexican food at the restaurant in the center of town. Big margaritas and a giant platter of fish tacos. There were no leftovers and I still had room for about two pounds of tortilla chips and homemade guacamole at the fireworks potluck later that evening. And a hotdog!
Stats:
Total elevation gain is about 3500' from the TH to Marmot Pass. Camp Mystery is about 500' and half mile before Marmot Pass. Camp Mystery has several established sites with several springs and a creek nearby. If the camps are full, there are many sites near Marmot Pass but water is back down the trail by Camp Mystery. There are snow patches for melting but this time of year the snow is rather pink from bacteria.
Buckhorn Lake is 3.5 miles from Marmot Pass. Trails are well maintained and signed. The mosquitoes had not yet emerged.
Here are the pictures.